hira: gypsies drink coffee too

currently: further procrastinating my italian cinema homeworks. sipping a macchiato.

caffe.

what a concept. in high school, i used to religiously drink starbucks and port city java coffees and lattes before or after school---coffee dates were trendy. since then, i had drastically cut back in favor of more gentle teas.

now that i'm in italia, caffe is never far from my reach. bars (not american bars that feature solely alcohol; it italy, a bar refers to a coffeeshop) are found on every corner and are often filled with regulars, stopping in for a caffe and a quick chat.

my friend mihai, originally romanian but now lives and studies in torino, works at his family bar in the evenings--i sometimes go there just to hang out, do some reading, and drink plenty of macchiatos, cappuccinos, and before-dinner aperitivos.

mihai, probably making me a macchiato, as he generously offers me plenty of drinks whenever i come by

evening lull, we close the bar and enjoy some music, drinks, and conversation before leaving to meet other friends

planning my life. lists. always.

this week is looking quite busy, but full of wondrous celebrations, and i am thrilled to be able to spend the beginning of the holiday season here in italia. birthdays and thanksgiving--i have a lot for which i am thankful.

and so it begins...

hira: back to basics

current location: torino, italia. chugging water. really.

your week in the city looks fabulous--candles 79 sounds so familiar. proud (but not surprised in the least) that you went to a vegan restaurant and didn't feel like you were missing out. you look lovely.

i'm trying to recall the last week--what i have been doing, with whom i have been, places i've seen. it frightens me that it all seems like one long night at Murphy's. i guess i've been frequenting the usual places along vittorio emanuele a little too often this past week or so--while i've met some amazing people from italy, norway, ireland---i can't help but feel a bit sloppy.

what a horrid word.

steps i will take to revive the very reasons for coming to torino:

1. long walks. the weather is not that bad. the leaves are colorful. and air is crisp.

2. rediscover the joy in cooking for myself. slowly.

3. practice my italian with my friends, even if they want to practice their english. go to the states.

4. shop. shoes. (this is important, not so much for the product, but for the act that involves wandering. i like to wander).

current obsessions: mushrooms, sauteed with balsamic, garlic and onion. plated with a rustic guacamole--simple, filling lunches. shawls in place of jackets during fall transition.

grateful that i have friends who share a love of traveling and learning--thinking of you often, and living your adventures as well as mine. egypt, guatemala, austria, italia.

for the weekend: hiking. parks. gardens. lots of yoga.

hira: truffle honey, aged cheese, and breathtaking landscapes--alba.

location: back at pane e amore, my blogging station and armed with a foamy cappaccino.

a day-trip to Alba spanned out over my Saturday morning and afternoon, taking us along winding country roads to a small town with big goods--the famous white truffles. people come from all over to bid on these prized beauties; the intensity of the flavor used for a variety of things--honey, pasta dishes, jams, spreads, etc.

a quick stroll through the markets, paninis and morning caffe in tow, and we headed to the main event: the truffle fair! it featured wines (piemonte is known for its famous reds), whole truffles, and products using the truffle (honey, cheeses, jams, meats etc) as well as local entrepreneurs showcasing their handmade goods.

it was a pleasant way to spend the afternoon, tasting my way through the fair with sarah and valeria. of course, i didn't emerge empty-handed either...

local. always.

two angels.

my mom's birthday (same day as katelyn :) ) is today, and one of her gifts came from this man and his wife--a hand-made cutting board. dark wood, earthy fragrances, and personally engraved.

and lastly. we meandered over to a castle, renovated to host tours and teach us even more about the inner workings of wine making and use of truffles. it was everything a castle should be, i guess--cold and dusty with narrow staircases. sitting atop a hill overlooking a beautiful landscape.

and this one is for you, daniele, love of my life ;)

looking forward to cooking dinner in my apartment tonight. it's the simple things.

hira: apertivo culture and fine piemonte dining

current location: pane amore, via madama cristina. with sarah. (friendly owners, the best chocolate muffins, and wireless. soothingly familiar feelings.)

there is a beautiful thing about food in italia--it is everywhere. but unlike the states, it's hard to find food that is produced in mass quantities, yet retains quality and taste. affordable yet classy. traditional yet diverse. enter: the apertivo. brilliant, really, and quite a social endeavor: in addition to eating and drinking for a mere fraction of the normal cost, you also mingle with italians, americans, and other europeans. perhaps a more hira-esque alternative then multiple, consecutive nights at the same pub (ahem, murphy's.)

this week, we decided to try a new apertivo at la drogheria, in piazza vittorio venetto--the piazza that is booming in the evenings, twinkling with white lights, and provides breathtaking views over the bridge and river. a simple 5 or 6 euros will buy you a drink of choice, and unlimited access to the apertivos set out--la drogheria had grilled zucchini and eggplant, tomatos, polenta with a selection of sauces, pastas, foccacie, frittate, mele con canella (apples with cinnamon), couscous, and baskets of bread with various oils and balsamics.

cafes and small ristorante hold apertivos nightly, drawing in a number of people who love food and love to mingle. ergo, it's difficult to whip out the camera and snap photos while simultaneously balancing a glass and plate and smiling at the stranger talking to you. also, the lighting is less than stellar. i do what i can.

a beautiful night-view of piazza vittorio veneto

the road down to the bridge and river

drinks, couscous, apples and frittata

when we are not apertivo-hopping, my usual ragazze (amiche) and i are taking restaurant recommendations from the amazing daniele (i say this in hopes that he will read this...) and venturing out to try new foods. this time, we decided to celebrate at a piemonte ristorante called scannabue--located under a beautiful church at the corner of via baretti and via saluzzo. dining outside with torches of fire to provide warmth, we were first served the ultimate bread basket. i like options. this basket gave us 4 choices. next, aqua naturale and .5 litres each vino bianco and vino rosso. the owner came to greet us, and explain some items on the menu--upon his recommendation, i chose the 'guancia'--deer cheek. tipico piemonte. very soft and succulent.

getting warm--sitting outside because it was too crowded indoors!

clearly not skimping on the chocolate here...

celebrating. (hahahah)

and when i'm not eating or hiking, i am teaching this little one her english verbs. don't tell her nonna that we really spend the majority of our time simultaneously playing hangman and listening to shakira on my ipod (elisabette is a big fan).

this week: i was doing well by cooking at home and buying fresh fruits and vegetables--well, in the past week, i have eaten out too much. so this week, i am instituting clean week, italy. this includes 5 visits to the new gym i just joined (mostly because it is closed on the weekend) and cooking at home every day this week for dinner. i'm craving a detox.

obsessions: truffles. chocolate muffins at pane amore, dark-toned paisley scarves, latinos, bicerin, the return of the headband, carelessness.

currently thinking about: settlements. new ones. the ongoing struggle for justice.

i think of you often, dear. remembering the long summer days. love that you are reflecting back on the mountain and bringing it along with you. reminding me to reassess.

our story is not over.

hira: still mesmerized

location: back home in torino

thanks for keeping the baby blog well-fed, alive and well while i was gone to the italian riviera darling---looking at that photo of us from last spring makes me miss you, the many cups of coffee we have shared together, and the comfort of having you close. thankfully, this blog keeps us more connected than ever--in your memory, i wear those scarves more than one should wear any article of clothing and order many espressi con panna.

i am extraordinarily blessed to be able to experience such a beautiful land and even more blessed with an able and strong body to hike, climb, and run through the mountains, towns and beaches. i completed my journey to santa margherita in increments, stopping along the way to explore the main port city in the north, Genoa. touring the city center took me to open markets, historic churches, royal residency, and panoramic views of the city and harbor..

i had to utilize enormous amounts of willpower to refrain from purchasing everything i saw--it was just all so me--homemade jams, old books and records, prints and paintings. thankfully simona (our amazing program assistant) pulled me away to go look at even prettier things.

we made our way to santa margherita, about an hour from genoa and our home for the next three days---arriving to the coastal town (SMALL town), we check into a quaint little hotel that is located about 3 minutes from the coast--perfect. valeria, sarah and i spent the rest of the day walking around, up and down the streets of santa margherita--stumbling upon little shopping boutiques (because really, we both know that a vacation is incomplete without some shopping), french provincial cafes, ocean-view restaurants, and plenty of gelaterrias (surprise, no?). the liguria region of italia is known for its pesto, focaccia, and seafood. so thats pretty much what i ate over the next few days--lots of cinnamon and yogurt gelato (better than GROM, dare i say?), homemade pizza with capers and anchovies, mussels, shrimp, and pesto focaccia. usually consumed on the beach, standing around in narrow streets, or sitting and facing the crashing mediterranean waves.

i enjoyed many pear and apple almond cakes, berry custard tarts, tiramisus, and caffe. balanced with lots of walking and climbing stairs, hills, and mountains. initially, i felt guilty for 'over-indulging', but then i just shut myself up and enjoyed every bite and every hill. i'm convinced those desserts gave me the energy to hike the cinque terre. people say that the cinque terre is the most beautiful part of italia--i have no doubt. five villages/towns lines the coast along cliffs and mountains--one can either take a train from town to town, or one can choose to hike along the mountains. a bit strenuous because the 'trail' is a constant up and down, up and down; a bit intimidating because the hiking paths line the edge of the mountains and cliffs, a quick glance down can cause one to, at the very least, stumble over the breathtaking beauty and the direct drop down to the sea.

much like yourself, i have been completing HIIT workouts here, 30 minute intervals of running and lots of walking, yoga and stair workouts unknowingly prepared me for a weekend of running around without being the slightest bit sore afterwards. success.

each town brought something new to be discovered--different people--welcoming us with with open arms, nourishment with fruits, lots of water, and coffees, as well as breathtaking views of pastel-colored houses lining the coast and dotting the cliffs,and a lavish history, pride and culture.





paradise. the views, the company, the experience. we will come here together one day.

this week's challenges: keep drinking that water. clean week, italia version: consists of less sweets, more protein. thinking of creative ways to transition my workouts to adapt to the colder weather. i haven't joined a gym yet, forcing myself to take advantage of my surroundings and build strength in my legs. more stair workouts.

current obsessions: relearning spanish. maroon. grill marks on my bread and vegetables. bringing back braids and incorporating them into hairstyles. chic winter wear. vespas.